ORGANIC COTTON PRODUCTION AND PRODUCTS; A CHALLENGE IN THE GLOBAL ECONOMY

Dr (Mrs) Ancy Thomas

Assistant Professor, Textile Engineering Department,

Bahirdar University,Bahirdar,Ethiopia

Abstract

Quality of Ethiopian cotton has a good appreciation in the world market. The country is producing a number of rare varieties of raw cotton. The production of this cotton can be diverted as organic cotton. Now a day’s people in the developed countries are more conscious of their health rather than the money. So people prefer organic cotton apparels and house holds than any other products. According to WHO’s estimates, as many as 20,000 deaths and 3 million chronic health problems are caused by poisoning related to agricultural pesticides globally each year. Moreover the poor farmers cannot afford to buy chemicals and pesticides.    Living soil is the basis of the organic farm, free of toxic chemicals for at least three years and enriched by compost and other organic matter. The concept is simple, Vigorous plants resist insects, weeds and diseases better than those under stress due to repeated chemical applications. The conventional field is a sterile environment, in which microbial, plant and insect diversity is selectively eliminated for the purpose of growing just one plant.  Much of the present conventional farm practice is done in the name of economy and efficiency. And in the competitive world marketplace, there is the continual pressure to produce more for less money rather than health hazards. The market, the university system, and agricultural – business are driven by the paradigm that chemicals are necessary for successful farming.   All farmers want to produce the highest yield and best quality while talking care of the land. The farmers need to be supported to cultivate organic cotton. Advance payments and awareness may be given to the farmers. Every garment should be beautiful and healthy, when we tale all necessary pains to make a product right, it usually does come out beautifully. We design products that embody these qualities. As our knitting industries posses ample exporting aim, which can create employment opportunities, the garment manufacturing zone with organic cotton can bring the country as the leaders ion the Global market.

Genetically modified (GM)

Introduction

Organic cotton cultivation in Ethiopia may be honed to the development of the country’s economy in the Global market. The prospects and demand for organic materials globally is on geometrically an increasing trend, as the people like to live eco-friendly. In this respect the use of natural raw materials for finished products is of high demand. The people are more focusing on better health and less irritant products for their physical conditions .Clothing is the most basic and the most appealing factor of personality. In this respect apparel constitute the major share of spending by every individual. The apparels made of organic cotton give much physical and mental comfort to the wearer as it is the second skin. Ethiopian cotton is relatively good in quality. The length of the fiber varies between 27-30mm when compared to other countries the length of the fiber is fairly good. The country’s largest export is 67 % to Asian countries, which from there; they are reselling to Egypt and other EU countries, 23% to Africa and remaining 10 % to Europe. If the country focuses on cultivating organic cotton which is now a days getting more popular the country can be the pioneers in exporting cotton to United States and other European countries. Cotton farming provides lively hood to many million households. Despite increasing application of pesticides the cotton farmers were facing low cotton yields. Increased input costs and decreasing marginal returns have lead many cotton farmers into debt. Demand for organic cotton and cotton garments have substantially increased. Organic cotton is more than a passing fashion. At present in developed countries Fashion designers work exclusively in organic cotton. Cotton used to be the king, now it may be all pistachios or almonds. The globalization of agriculture is certainly bad news for growers who have never known anything except cotton. It's also troubling for the advocates who are spearheading a campaign for organic and low-spray cotton. As we promote a way of clothing ourselves that doesn't involve stripping the earth naked.

Cotton is a valuable crop, widely used in light industry to such cotton characteristics as durability, absorbency, and strength and hygienic due to lack of static electricity formation. These properties are given to cotton after all the traces of protein and waxes are removed. Cotton is known to be one of the most chemically intensive crops to grow, that's why an alternative to natural cotton - organic cotton - is often used. The fiber is most often spun into thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile, which is the most widely used natural-fiber cloth in clothing today. The English name descends from the Arabic word al qutun, (whence also came the Spanish word algodón) meaning cotton fiber. Cotton fiber (once processed to remove seeds and traces of wax, protein, etc.) consists of nearly pure cellulose a natural polymer. Cotton production is very efficient, in the sense that, ten percent or less of the weight is lost in subsequent processing to convert the raw cotton bolls into pure fiber. The cellulose is arranged in a way that gives cotton fibers a high degree of strength, durability, and absorbency. Each fibre is made up of twenty to thirty layers of cellulose coiled in a neat series of natural springs. When the cotton boll (seed case) is opened the fibres dry into flat, twisted, ribbon-like shapes and become kinked together and interlocked. This interlocked form is ideal for spinning into a fine yarn.

Objective of the study

v Importance of organic cotton cultivation in the Global market

v Organic cotton verses conventional cotton

v Economic performance of organic cotton in the growth oh of economy

v Importance of organic T shirts and other apparels

v Challenges in the production of organic cotton apparels

Organic cotton and its Importance

The term organic is now widely used to describe the products of agriculture that use no pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. Organic methods consider the whole eco system and use natural techniques to assist plant growth, repel pests and protect and encourage wildlife habitats. Organic agriculture aims to maintain and increase soil fertility and give livestock humane living conditions. Organic living is becoming an increasingly obvious choice. People today are more aware of the damage caused by the pesticides used in agriculture. Whilst pesticides are initially very effective, soon the pests become resistant, stronger and stronger pesticides are required to achieve the same results. The unnaturally high yields also strip the soil of its nutrients, until eventually the soil becomes barren and uneconomical to farm. The developing world faces an agricultural crisis in the face of this vicious circle; the use of pesticides in these countries is unregulated, and with no governmental price support, the increasing yields achieved using pesticides have forced prices down, forcing other farmers to use these chemicals too. Now the soil is frequently turning barren or the victim to new, pesticide resistant insects and farmers are heavily indebted to pesticide suppliers and landlords, often with little hope for a way out.

Organic cotton is roughly defined as fibre that does not come from genetically modified (GM) seed and has been grown without the use of man-made pesticides and fertilizers—all of which is supposed to be independently verified. In fields where synthetic chemicals have been used in the past, it takes about three growing cycles to make the full conversion. The change-over to organic is arguably tougher in America, a chemical-loving country where 80% of the cotton crop comes from GM seeds; globally, only about 20% of cotton comes from such seeds.

Need for the study

Many pesticides are known irritants and suspected or known carcinogens. Two of the most prevalent chemicals used on cotton include tribufos (a defoliant that can cause respiratory problems and considered a human carcinogen by the Environment Protection Agency) and methyl parathion. They can be carried through the atmosphere too, and traces of the pesticide DDT (banned in the 1970s) have been found in the fat of arctic penguins. But pesticides don't only harm the earth. By eating or absorbing pesticides you are exposing your body to its effects. The chemicals used do not always fully wash out, so any non-organic foods you eat and wear as next to your skin place traces of these chemicals directly into your system. The use of pesticide heavy crop, have indelibly changed the nature and health of farming communities. The vast quantity of material processed creates a major point source of land, air and water pollution. Many cotton pesticides are EPA toxicity class I, like the viciously effective insecticides Methomyl and Methyl Parathion. The reality in developing nations, where pesticide regulation is more relaxed, is much worse Cotton processing also takes another toxic toll, as the use of chlorine bleaching agents, formaldehydes and phenols is quite dangerous to all life. The textile industry is also the prime example of sweatshop outsourcing .A study conducted in India proved that The failure of cotton cultivation is due to the spectacular failure of Monsanto's genetically engineered Bollgard cotton. The scientist is blaming “deskilling" societies encouraged by global corporate dominance. Total reliance on modern pesticides and genetic engineering is an example of Dr. Stone's "deskilling" theory. He points out that "other crops being developed in India are more consistent with agricultural sustainability," and acknowledges that these projects are mostly in the public sector rather than generated by "the biotech corporations that spend fortunes touting them." Cotton requires an enormous amount of pesticide to keep it viable. Each pound of product requires a third of a pound of pesticides, which adds up to25 percent of all pesticides used in cotton fields. Some sources report that 60% of field workers in the cotton industry show symptoms of permanent poisoning. Equally worrying is that these pesticides have not only been linked to declining sperm counts, they have also been found in the milk of animals and nursing mothers. In contrast, organically produced clothing is grown by working in harmony with nature and without the use of any pesticides or genetically modified organisms. The majority of consumer technology seems to have geared toward nullifying intellect for the sake of profit.

By growing organically, we become caretakers of the earth which naturally provides for our physical requirements. There are those who may argue that human interference is required to genetically modify plants and seeds or develop synthetic growth boosters, fertilizers and pesticides in order to increase output of the land and our animals By growing organically we pave the way for plants to do what they like doing best - and that is to grow and flourish in well managed systems which also protect and encourage wildlife and natural habitats. If the same expenditure went into researching organic methods as is currently spent on pesticide production and chemical alternatives then human interference with the earth may actually result in our species becoming catalysts for the planet to flourish. Organic is not a fad. It is an ancient knowledge re-discovered, and with new scientific discoveries it is at the start of its modern development. And with our natural quest to learn and discover and evolve, organic methods could well become the best re-invention of the 21st century.

Comparison Between Organic, Conventional, and IPM Cotton

Cotton productions can carried be out in three different methods.. Cotton production treatments included certified organic, conventionally grown and supervised integrated pest management (IPM) strategies. Measurements for comparison between treatments included arthropod abundance, plant development, plant density, pesticide use, and cost of production, lint quality and yields. Organic fields had significantly fewer western tarnish plant bug (Lygus hesperus) nymphs (a key pest) and more generalist predators than conventional fields. Other pest herbivores were below nominal action thresholds in all treatments. There were no significant treatment differences in plant development, density, or lint quality. Lower quantities of insecticide were used in organic and IPM fields than in conventional fields. IPM fields averaged 0.30 lb of active ingredient (AI) insecticide per acre, as opposed to 1.78 lb AI/acre for conventional fields, a reduction of 83%. Costs of production per bale were 35% higher for organic than for conventional cotton. This cost differential between organic and conventional cotton was primarily due to greater hand-weeding costs and lower yields in organic cotton. Yields were 2.1, 2.7, and 2.8 bales/acre, for organic, IPM and conventional treatments, respectively. Low world cotton prices and the lack of premium prices for organic cotton are the primary obstacles for its continued production

Economic performance of Organic Cotton

Studies have proven that by cultivating Organic cotton the country economy can be flourished. Present Global market demands for health rather than money. People of effluent class are ready to pay more and buy clothing which are not harmful for their health.

(Result of the study conducted in India by Swiss Agency for development and cooperation-2005)

Labour and material inputs

Total labour inputs are not higher in organic cotton fields. They need to spend more time for weeding and less time for pest management. Application of organic manure is double in organic cotton fields.

Production costs

Production cost will be 13 to 15% lower in organic cotton fields. This will be mainly due to 40% lower cost for inputs (seeds, manures, organic pest management Items).

Yields

In the beginning the yield may be low when compared to conventional cotton but after 2 years of observation in various countries show that there is an increase in the yield 4-6%.

Gross margin in cotton

Due to slight higher cotton yields,20% organic price premium and lower production costs, gross margins in organic cotton fields were 30-43% higher.

Efficiencies

Per Kg of seed cotton harvest, the organic farms require less labour than conventional cotton farms. However organic farm requires more water for irrigation.

Economic impact o farms

Average yields as well as production costs for rotation crops are less in organic cotton farms.

Organic Cotton T shirts

The organic T shirts which are very close to our skin can hinder all types of toxins and poisonous materials. The studies conducted in various countries shows that people prefer organic cotton because of the various reasons. They are:

v Non allergic to skin due to lack of carcinogens

v Non-irritant to respiratory, pulmonary and circulatory systems because it is not emitting poisons like carcinogens and methyl parathion which causes as stimulant for cancerous cells in the body and blood.

v Among young children it hinder the brain growth

In addition to the dangers of pesticides during cultivation, cotton is subjected to further chemical treatments after it has been picked. To achieve coloured cotton some manufacturers use heavy metal dyes such as chromium and copper. These are highly toxic, and due to cotton's natural resistance to dyes about half the chemicals used end up as waste, polluting rivers and soil. Even white T-shirts are not naturally white - most will have been bleached using chlorine, another extremely toxic pollutant.

Certification mark

The term 'Organic' has a legal definition and the production and processing of all organic products is governed by a strict set of guidelines. Producers, manufacturers and processors each pay an annual fee to be registered and are required to keep detailed records ensuring a full trail of traceability from farm, or production plant, to table. Any major infringement of this results in suspension of license and withdrawal of products from the market. All organic farmers, food manufacturers and processors are annually inspected, as well as being subject to random inspections. The standards cover every aspect of registration and certification including permitted and non-permitted ingredients, the environment and conservation, processing, packaging and distribution. The standards are regularly updated and are then enforced by certification bodies - most of which operate higher standards than are required by law. Each certification body has its own symbol. This gives an added assurance to customers. Any shop that repackages goods out of sight of customers, or cooks its own food and labels it 'organic', must also have its own license to do so.

Challenges ahead

Despite the great hopes of organic cotton's backers, several challenges could prevent it from going truly main-stream. Organic cotton currently accounts for only 0.1% of global cotton output, for a number of reasons. So Ethiopia can take as a challenge and concentrate and emphasize in organic cultivation can become the pioneers. The land is not contaminated with chemicals as the individual farmers are not using any pesticides and other chemical stimulant for growth. The cost of organic conversion and lower crop yields in the first 1-3 years than regular cotton given the limited supply, it is no surprise that organic cotton is more expensive than the ordinary variety. Organic cotton from Turkey, the world's largest grower, sells for about 20% more than the conventional sort. The premium is smaller in India and Pakistan, two other big growers with lots of cheap labour, and greater in America. Another problem is the potential for fraud. Cotton-industry officials say it is virtually impossible to differentiate organic cotton from the ordinary kind. The premium on organic cotton and an overstretched inspection system mean that “the market is absolutely ripe for fraud in organic.
The globalization of agriculture is certainly bad news for growers who have never known anything except cotton. It's also troubling for the advocates who are spearheading a campaign for organic and low-spray cotton. The biggest hurdles for maintaining a healthy cotton industry are business-oriented, not biological. The farmers in the country are not aware of any certification mark or there are no agencies to get them the certification marks. So they are selling their product at the rate of ordinary cotton price which reduces their profit. There are no separate ginneries or spinning mechanism for organic cotton. So all these cotton are processing in the main stream and mixed up with other cotton. Each T-shirt made from one hundred percent organic cotton saves one-third of a pound of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Consumers who buy organic cotton help to support this fledgling sustainable industry.

Boll Evils
farmers may need a commitment from apparel companies to make steady, yearly purchases of sustainable harvests then only they can stick with organic and low-spray cotton.

Methodology

By sending questionnaires, data was collected from various countries and the results regarding the preference of organic cotton products. The data was collected from two different categories like developed countries (USA, London, Germany, France, Italy, Australia etc) and developing countries(India, Pakistan, Bangkok, Singapore, china). From each category around 2000 people participated and their opinion is recorded in the given diagram.

Analysis and findings

The analysis table and the diagram shows the preference and use of organic cotton T shirts due to various reasons are stating A large number of respondents feel that the use of organic cotton will help them to lead an eco-friendly life. This may prevent them to get any type of diseases causing by using non organic products. They feel that the use of organic cotton T shirts and other organic cotton apparel products will help them in preventing to get skin infections, asthma, types of blood cancers, respiratory and heart diseases, which occur due to carcinogens, methomyl and methyl parathions. Since the T shirts lay close to the skin there are chances of absorbing these chemicals by the skin tissues.

Conclusion

Buying organic cotton clothes is a great way to help safeguard the environment. In Africa, where much of the world’s tiny supply of organic cotton is grown, yields are only about 400 pounds. Tanzania gets only 200 pounds of cotton per acre! The biggest problem isn’t even pests, but the lack of nitrogen to nourish the plant roots. U.S. farmers take their nitrogen from an inexhaustible source—the air, which is 78 percent N. For some mysterious reason, organic farming’s rules forbid the nitrogen fertilizer that encourages higher yield. It’s high time we started measuring our farming by how much land it leaves for nature, not by how much pesticide or fertilizer is used on the land where the wildlife isn’t. High-yield biotech cotton usually has an ultra-safe natural pesticide bred into its tissues. The only organisms affected by the bred-in pesticide are bugs that try to eat the cotton plant. It doesn’t affect birds, bees or humans. The organic movement has loudly banned all biotech crops from its markets, claiming that “biotech crops don’t yield more.” China has a new biotech cotton variety that yields 25 percent more fiber per acre than conventional cotton. Given China’s huge cotton plantings, that will save 3 million acres of farmland for food crops—which will ultimately save at least that much forest from being cleared and plowed.  What’s really awful is that the Organic Exchange failed to take into account the biggest farming factor in saving the environment: yield per acre from the land we farm. Humanity is already farming about half of the Earth’s land area not covered with ice or deserts. By 2050, a peak population of about 9 billion humans will live on the planet, and they can use pesticide free dressings and clothing. Living an organic life is most certainly about being healthy, but it is also very much about re-creating a healthy planet for the future. Just one t-shirt takes an estimated 150g of pesticide to cultivate (Pesticide Action Network). No wonder cotton growers refer to cotton fields as the pesticide ‘sink’ – chemicals are literally poured onto the cotton at a horrific rate. These toxic chemicals rid the crops of insects – but at what cost?Organic cotton—once found only on the backs of hippies and tree-huggers—is trying to go mainstream. Proponents claim the fibre is better for the planet, for growers and for consumers than the more common sort of cotton. Whether or not that is true, organic cotton certainly looks attractive to retailers trying to burnish their socially responsible images. Ethics, after all, are all the rage.

Recommendations

The drain of this resource through other countries may be weakened by taking up the exports to Egypt, United States and EU countries at a fair price so the country’s economy will be back to the country

Arrangement may be done to get Certification mark for organic cotton as the farmers are not aware .Special ginnery and spinning mill has to set up to process organic cotton without mixing the fibers with other cotton. As many of the spinning mills are in public sector farmers need to give special help in transporting their product.

Garment industries should come forward for making T shirts exclusive with organic cotton fibers and thee industries should take up the cotton regularly from the farmers so that they are sure of selling the product

The Organic cotton farming will improve the ecological and socio-economic sustainability and improve the health of the people.

Reference

v Ethically minded shoppers turn their focus to cotton;Nov 30th 2006;From The Economist print edition

v Jason Mark A Loom With a ViewThe U.S. organic cotton industry has a tough row to hoe,20 Nov 2006

v Research institute of Organic agriculture;2005,Switzerland

v Sean L. Swezey,Polly Goldman,Janet Bryer,Diego Nieto.Paper presented at a symposium entitled “IPM in Organic Systems”, XXII International Congress of Entomology, Brisbane, Australia, 16 August 2004: Comparison Between Organic, Conventional, and IPM Cotton in the Northern San Joaquin Valley, California